When it comes to exploring a new city, there’s no better way to understand its culture and heritage than through its cuisine. Besançon, nestled in the picturesque Franche-Comté region of eastern France, offered me a culinary adventure that went far beyond the typical French stereotypes. In this charming city, I discovered a diverse and delightful food scene that left me craving for more. Join me as I recount my gastronomic journey through Besançon, with a special focus on some hidden culinary gems that deserve your attention.
La Cancoillotte: Creamy Comfort in a Pot
My culinary exploration of Besançon commenced with a regional specialty, La Cancoillotte. This unique cheese spread is made from metton cheese, seasoned with garlic, and served warm. It boasts a texture that’s a delightful blend of melted cheese and thick fondue.
Where to Savor It: My quest for the best Cancoillotte led me to Le Poker d’As, a charming restaurant that specializes in traditional Franche-Comté cuisine. Here, the Cancoillotte was served alongside boiled potatoes, creating a hearty and satisfying meal.
Price Range: Expect to pay around €12 to €15 for a serving of Cancoillotte, which is ideal for sharing.
Traveler’s Tip: Cancoillotte is a perfect dish to warm up with during the colder months. Pair it with a glass of local wine for a truly authentic experience.
Escargot: Savoring French Tradition
French cuisine wouldn’t be complete without a taste of escargot (snails). While it may not be for the faint of heart, trying this classic French delicacy was an adventure in itself. The snails were prepared with garlic, parsley, and butter, resulting in a rich and savory dish that left my taste buds pleasantly surprised.
Where to Try It: My pursuit of escargot led me to Le Clos des Sens, a restaurant known for its innovative take on traditional French dishes. The escargot here were tender and brimming with flavor.
Price Range: A serving of escargot at Le Clos des Sens typically costs around €15 to €18.
Traveler’s Tip: If you’re feeling adventurous, don’t hesitate to give escargot a try. The combination of garlic and butter is a culinary match made in heaven.
Saucisse de Morteau: A Smoky Delight
No visit to the Franche-Comté region is complete without savoring Saucisse de Morteau. This smoked sausage is a regional treasure, celebrated for its distinctive flavor. Traditionally, it’s smoked in farmhouse chimneys, giving it a unique smokiness that sets it apart.
Where to Indulge: I had the pleasure of savoring Saucisse de Morteau at Le Fournil Gourmand, a delightful bakery and café. The sausage was accompanied by homemade sauerkraut, creating a hearty and satisfying meal.
Price Range: A plate of Saucisse de Morteau, served with sauerkraut, costs approximately €15 to €18.
Traveler’s Tip: Saucisse de Morteau pairs wonderfully with a dollop of local mustard, so be sure to ask for the regional mustard when you order this dish.
Tarte au Comté: A Cheese Lover’s Dream
Cheese enthusiasts, prepare to be delighted by Tarte au Comté. This savory tart showcases Comté cheese, a regional favorite, as its star ingredient. The cheese is combined with eggs, cream, and seasonings, then baked to perfection in a flaky pastry crust.
Where to Relish It: For the ultimate Tarte au Comté experience, I headed to La Petite Aneth, a charming café with a focus on local and seasonal ingredients. The tart was served with a side salad, creating a well-balanced and satisfying meal.
Price Range: Tarte au Comté is typically priced at around €10 to €12, making it an affordable yet delicious option.
Traveler’s Tip: Enhance the flavors of your Tarte au Comté by pairing it with a glass of white wine from the Jura region. The combination is sure to tantalize your taste buds.
Macarons Bisontins: Sweet Bliss
No culinary journey is complete without indulging in a sweet treat, and in Besançon, Macarons Bisontins stole the spotlight. These delicate almond meringue cookies are available in a variety of mouthwatering flavors, ranging from classic chocolate and coffee to fruity raspberry and nutty pistachio.
Where to Satisfy Your Sweet Tooth: I satisfied my sugar cravings at La Cure Gourmande, a confectionery store renowned for its artisanal sweets. The selection of Macarons Bisontins was not only extensive but also irresistibly tempting.
Price Range: A box of Macarons Bisontins, containing an assortment of flavors, is priced at approximately €8 to €12, depending on the size.
Traveler’s Tip: Consider purchasing a box of Macarons Bisontins as a delightful souvenir from your Besançon adventure. These delectable treats also make for perfect gifts or sweet reminders of your culinary journey.
Coq au Vin: A French Classic
One evening in Besançon, I decided to delve into the heart of French cuisine by indulging in a classic dish, Coq au Vin. This rustic and hearty stew features chicken slow-cooked in red wine with mushrooms, onions, and bacon. The result is a symphony of flavors that dance on your palate.
Where to Savor It: I opted for a visit to Le Zinc, a cozy bistro known for its authentic French dishes. The Coq au Vin here was a testament to the culinary prowess of the chef, with tender chicken and a rich, wine-infused sauce.
Price Range: Coq au Vin at Le Zinc is priced at approximately €18 to €22, making it a worthwhile splurge.
Traveler’s Tip: Pair your Coq au Vin with a glass of Pinot Noir or Burgundy wine for a truly harmonious dining experience.
Croûte aux Morilles: A Mushroom Lover’s Dream
Mushroom enthusiasts, rejoice! Croûte aux Morilles is a delectable dish that celebrates the earthy flavors of morel mushrooms. These prized fungi are sautéed in a creamy sauce, then generously poured over toasted bread.
Where to Try It: My quest for the perfect Croûte aux Morilles led me to Le Petit Louis, a charming restaurant with a focus on regional ingredients. The dish was a heavenly medley of flavors, and the morel mushrooms stole the show.
Price Range: A serving of Croûte aux Morilles at Le Petit Louis typically costs around €16 to €20.
Traveler’s Tip: If you’re a fan of mushrooms, don’t miss the opportunity to savor this dish. Its exquisite flavors make it a must-try.
Vin Jaune: The Golden Elixir of Jura
In the nearby Jura region, I had the privilege of experiencing Vin Jaune, a unique and iconic wine that’s aged for at least six years and three months in oak barrels. Its distinct flavor profile, marked by notes of nuts and spices, left a lasting impression on my palate.
Where to Sip It: My Vin Jaune adventure took me to La Maison du Vigneron, a local winery where I had the chance to sample this golden elixir. The winery offered guided tours and tastings that provided insight into the winemaking process.
Price Range: The cost of a bottle of Vin Jaune varies depending on its age and quality but typically falls within the range of €20 to €50.
Traveler’s Tip: If you’re a wine enthusiast, be sure to explore the Jura wine region and discover the unique and exquisite wines it has to offer, including Vin Jaune.
Flamiche: A Savory Delight from the North
As I continued my culinary journey through Besançon, I encountered Flamiche, a savory pie that hails from the northern regions of France. This delightful pastry is filled with a rich mixture of leeks, cream, and cheese, creating a harmony of flavors and textures.
Where to Relish It: My quest for the best Flamiche brought me to La Table d’Hôtes du Moulin, a charming eatery known for its traditional French dishes. The Flamiche here was a revelation, with a flaky crust that cradled the creamy filling.
Price Range: A serving of Flamiche typically costs around €12 to €15, making it an affordable and delectable option.
Traveler’s Tip: Pair your Flamiche with a glass of local white wine to complement the savory flavors of this dish.
Comté Cheese: The Regional Jewel
No visit to Besançon is complete without savoring Comté cheese, a regional jewel that’s celebrated for its distinctive taste. This semi-hard cheese is aged for months or even years, resulting in a complex flavor profile that ranges from nutty and fruity to slightly sweet.
Where to Savor It: I couldn’t resist indulging in Comté cheese at La Crèmerie, a quaint cheese shop that offered an extensive selection of this prized cheese. The knowledgeable staff guided me through a tasting, allowing me to appreciate the nuances of different Comté varieties.
Price Range: The cost of Comté cheese varies based on its age and quality, with prices typically ranging from €15 to €30 per kilogram.
Booking Reservations: A Wise Move
I found that making reservations was a wise move, especially for restaurants that specialize in traditional or seasonal dishes. Besançon’s gastronomic scene is beloved by locals and tourists alike, and securing a table in advance ensures you won’t miss out on the city’s delectable offerings.
As I immersed myself in the rich tapestry of flavors, I couldn’t help but appreciate how food can serve as a gateway to understanding a region’s culture and history. Besançon, with its culinary delights, truly left an imprint on my taste buds and my heart. It’s a destination that any food lover should add to their list of must-visit places.
When you find yourself in Besançon, don’t merely stick to the familiar—venture out, explore the diverse and delicious food scene, and savor the flavors that make this city a culinary gem. Your taste buds and your travel memories will thank you.
